St Michael’s Church at Stinsford is a small historic church just outside Dorchester, best known for its close association with the Dorset novelist and poet Thomas Hardy.
Hardy was baptised here in 1840 and attended the church during his childhood. Stinsford later became Mellstock in Hardy’s fictional Wessex and provided the setting for much of his early novel Under the Greenwood Tree.
The churchyard is also the final resting place of Thomas Hardy’s heart, together with his two wives and several generations of the Hardy family.
Thomas Hardy and Stinsford Church
Thomas Hardy was born at nearby Higher Bockhampton in 1840 and St Michael’s was his local parish church.
The Hardy family had strong connections with the church. Hardy’s father and grandfather were musicians in the church’s west gallery, playing as part of the group that provided music for services before such village musicians were gradually replaced by church organs.
These memories helped inspire Hardy’s 1872 novel Under the Greenwood Tree, which tells the story of the Mellstock Quire and its struggle to survive after the arrival of a new organ.
Stinsford became Mellstock in Hardy’s fictional Wessex, and the church and surrounding countryside also appear in his poetry and other writing.
Thomas Hardy’s Grave
When Thomas Hardy died at Max Gate in Dorchester on 11th January 1928, there was disagreement over where he should be buried.
Hardy’s family wanted him buried at Stinsford, while others believed that a writer of his national importance should be laid to rest in Poets’ Corner at Westminster Abbey.
An unusual compromise was eventually reached.
Hardy’s body was cremated and his ashes were interred in Westminster Abbey, while his heart was buried in Stinsford churchyard among his family.
The grave can be found on the left of the path leading towards the church. Hardy’s two wives, Emma and Florence, are also buried here, while nearby graves contain other members of the Hardy family.
The churchyard is also the burial place of former Poet Laureate Cecil Day-Lewis, who greatly admired Hardy’s work.
Inside St Michael’s Church
Although the Hardy connection attracts many visitors, St Michael’s is an interesting historic church in its own right.
Parts of the present building date from the 13th century, while the west tower was added during the early 14th century and other parts of the church were added or rebuilt over subsequent centuries.
One of its oldest features is an ancient carved stone relief depicting an angel, thought to date from before or around the time of the Norman Conquest.
The church also contains a memorial window dedicated to Thomas Hardy.
The west gallery has particular significance to Hardy enthusiasts. The original gallery associated with the musicians who inspired Under the Greenwood Tree was largely removed during the 19th century. A new gallery was constructed in the late 20th century as a reminder of this musical tradition.
Another unusual Hardy connection can be found beneath his memorial window. The original stone that once covered Hardy’s ashes in Poets’ Corner at Westminster Abbey was returned to Stinsford after the Abbey replaced it and is now incorporated into the church floor.
Visiting St Michael’s Church
Stinsford is a small village approximately 2 miles east of Dorchester, surrounded by the countryside that influenced so much of Hardy’s writing.
The church is still an active place of worship, so visitors should be respectful when looking around the church and churchyard.
A visit does not take long – around 30 minutes is sufficient for most people – but it is particularly worthwhile for anyone following the Thomas Hardy sites around Dorchester.
Thomas Hardy Places Nearby
St Michael’s Church can easily be combined with several other places connected with Thomas Hardy.
Hardy’s Cottage at Higher Bockhampton is only a short distance away and is the thatched cottage where Hardy was born and grew up.
In Dorchester, Max Gate was Hardy’s home from 1885 until his death in 1928, while Dorset Museum & Art Gallery holds the world’s largest collection relating to his life and work.
The Thomas Hardy Statue can also be seen near the top of High West Street in Dorchester.
Together, Stinsford Church, Hardy’s Cottage, Max Gate and Dorset Museum provide an excellent introduction to Hardy’s life and his close relationship with the Dorset countryside that became his fictional Wessex.